That's Deep! (Lovely Lake Tahoe)

Fast Facts

*Lake Tahoe is the second deepest lake in the U.S., and tenth deepest in the world.
*It is the highest alpine lake in the U.S., and second largest alpine lake in the world.
*Maximum Depth: ~1,640 feet (500 meters)
*Average Depth: 1,000 feet (305 meters)
*Length (N-S): 22 miles (35 kilometers)
*Width (W-E): 12 miles (19 kilometers)
*Capacity: 39 trillion gallons

A Little Bit About It...

Lake Tahoe had long been considered a sacred spiritual site by the Washo Indians before the first white explorers came upon it in the middle of the 19th century (Kit Carson and John Fremont in 1844). From then, it wouldn't be long until pioneers settled in and silver was discovered. There went the neighborhood.

Fortune seekers rushed in and forced the natives out. Within thirty years, (1860-1890) the beautiful forests surrounding the lake were all but destroyed to satisfy the sudden and massive need for building materials and fuel. Even so, the area was breathtaking.

Word of the natural beauty of the area spread, and Lake Tahoe soon became a summer playground for the affluent families of California, particularly San Francisco. Posh hotels sprang up, and palatial estates soon followed. Many of these mansions of yesteryear are now kept as museums and open for public tours during the summer months.



Conservation and Pollution

Present-day Lake Tahoe is not only devoted to historical preservation, but natural rehabilitation as well. Its popularity has led to some dire environmental consequences. Aside from the aforementioned deforestation, there is also a problem with algal growth.

In the 1960s, scientists began measuring the clarity of the lake. At that time, visibility was greater than 100 feet. It is now at about 64 feet. Urban runoff, car and boat exhaust, and accelerated erosion have increased the amount of phosphorus and nitrogen in the area which creates an algal abundance. In turn, the water becomes murky. Destruction of wetlands is also taking its toll, as those wetlands have historically worked as a "filter" for excess sediment and nutrients. Now, these things flow more directly into the lake, feeding the algae. If this trend continues, the lake will become a swampy marsh, then a meadow. Such a process (called eutrophication) usually takes millions of years to occur, but human activity is accelerating it at an alarming rate.

There have also been a number of non-native species introduced to both the water and land, wreaking havoc on the ecosystem.

Efforts to curb pollution and aid forest growth are a priority for the area, but it's a juggling act filled with too much compromise when the economy relies so heavily upon tourist money and so-called 'growth.'




What to Do There...

Most of what follows in this section are summer activities, because that's when I was there. Winter is a whole other ballgame. Tahoe becomes a winter wonderland, and sports like skiing, sledding, snowshoeing dominate. Many of the mansion tours are summer only, so be sure to check for their availability if you're heading there during the cold season. But, assuming it's warm...

Bicycling
Most of us aren't going to circumnavigate the enormous lake, but there are plenty of trails all over the place. The Forest Trail is an easy stretch perfect for families and people looking for a relaxing, scenic trail without the worry of cars. It runs about 5 miles round-trip from around Pope Beach to just past Baldwin Beach, and takes you through the beautiful Tallac Historic Estates, as well as to the entrance of Rainbow Trail at Taylor Creek. There, you can park your bike and walk along a pretty, self-guided tour through Tahoe's aquatic ecosystems.

Anderson's Bicycle Rental is a family-owned rental stand that's been right at the beginning of The Forest Trail since 1978. We found them knowledgeable, helpful, and reasonably priced for the day. They'll provide you with good bikes, maps, helmets, locks, and recommendations. Get there early for the best bike selection.

Swimming
I love swimming, and the gentle currents of the giant lake make it feel like taking a dip in a serene sea. A serene, arctic sea. After about an hour of swimming, my arm grew numb, and I'm well insulated. Consider yourself warned.

Our favorite beach (and we hear it's a local favorite, too) was Baldwin Beach. Gorgeous scenery, BBQ and picnic areas, and shockingly clean and non-smelly bathrooms make this beach hard to beat.

Boating
I have not yet taken a boat out on Lake Tahoe, but there are plenty of places from which to rent them. Going out on a boat is the only way to visit Fannette Island, the only island on the lake, which houses the ruins of the old Vikingsholm Tea Room. Fallen Leaf Lake is minutes away from Tahoe, and is also a very popular place for boating. Nestled just behind Fallen Leaf Lake is Glen Alpine Falls. The beautiful cascade is easily accessible, and worth the jaunt.

Diving
Near Fannette Island is Emerald Bay Underwater Park, which is a spot for divers to see and explore all manner of submerged artifacts dating back to the area's heyday between the late 1800s and mid-1900s. From piers and boats to sinks and toilets, there's apparently a treasure-trove of fun down there.

Gambling
Modern-day Tahoe is not just about natural beauty and historical preservation. There are plenty of opportunities to try your hand with Lady Luck. World-class casinos can be found all around the Nevada side of the lake. The most popular on the south side is the small band along the right near the California border which includes Harrah's, Harvey's, Mont Bleu, and Horizon.

In the north, Crystal Bay is the home of four large casinos, including the Tahoe Biltmore and the famous Cal-Neva. This landmark was built in 1926, rebuilt after a fire in 1937, and was once owned by Frank Sinatra (along with his associates "Wingy" and "Skinny").



The Tallac Historic Site


Baldwin Estate
Elias "Lucky" Baldwin was quite a character who left an indelible mark on his adopted state of California. Baldwin Park in Southern California is named for him, and he opened the Santa Anita Racetrack. He led one of those lives that makes you think, "Dang, I've gotta do more," and is worth learning more about. At any rate, he had a 6-acre chunk of real estate holdings in Lake Tahoe which he left to his daughter Anita upon his death in 1909. She, in turn, gave it to her daughter, Dextra Winter (aka Dextra McGonagle, after a later husband) who, in 1924, had this home (and guest homes) built. Two years after her death in 1967, the title was given to the government, and now we are able to visit this lovely old residence- cum-museum.

The Pope Estate
Her neighbors to the east were the Popes. The Pope Estate is the oldest and largest estate in the Tallac Historic Site, and it belonged to other wealthy families before the Popes took it over in the 1920s, beginning with George P. Tallant, who had the house built in 1894.

Only five years later, the house was sold to Lloyd Tevis, the founder and director of Wells Fargo. He died shortly before escrow closed, and so the property fell into the hands of his son. He added on to the home significantly and built most of the structures you see today. Sadly for him, financial setbacks eventually necessitated the sale of his beloved home to the Popes.

Although Pope Resources (originally Pope and Talbot) was and continues to be one of the most successful lumber and shipping businesses in the country, the family transferred the land and buildings to the Forest Service in 1965 to ensure the preservation of the estate for generations of visitors.

Valhalla Estate
Valhalla is the third of the Tallac estates. Named after the the great hall of the Viking afterlife, the mansions was built by Walter S. Heller in 1922. So loved was the house and the lake, for 20 years after their divorce in 1936, he and his wife alternated weekends there.


The Ehrman Mansion (aka The Hellman-Ehrman Mansion)

Isaias W. Hellman was born in Bavaria and moved to Los Angeles to work at his cousins' dry goods store. Six years later, he 'accidentally' became the city's first banker when a scuffle erupted over some valuables he had stored in his safe as a courtesy to his customers. The incident prompted him to be more formal with his banking practice, and issued deposit books to his customers. He and a partner then opened L.A.'s second official bank in 1868, and a few years later went on to open another one.

All of his successes allowed him to invest in water, gas, and power, as well as transportation. He helped bring the Southern Pacific Railway to Los Angeles, thereby ending the relative seclusion of the city, and he and Henry Huntington partnered to form the Los Angeles Railway and Pacific Electric Railway.

Truly an instrumental player in the growth of Los Angeles, Hellman was president of B'nai B'rith when the congregation built the city's first temple in 1872.

Not surprisingly, Hellman owned a lot of land in Southern California, and so was one of three prominent members of the community to donate land for the area's first University, the University of Southern California.

In 1890, Isaias moved to San Francisco to help save the floundering Nevada Bank. In 1897, he purchased a large plot of land in Lake Tahoe, and went about building his vacation mansion, Pine Lodge, on the 2,000 acres. It was completed in 1903, and was left to his daughter, Florence Hellman Ehrman,and she and her husband spent many years entertaining summer guests there. It is currently known as the Ehrman Mansion, or the Hellman-Ehrman Mansion in Sugar Pine Point State Park.

The property is astonishing in its breadth, and includes a childrens' house, boat houses, ice house, butler's cabin, tennis courts, and a pump house. You can see the exterior of these buildings, though the actual guided tour only goes through the main quarters.

Genoa, Nevada

Less than 30 minutes from Lake Tahoe is the first settlement in what was the Nevada Territory. This quaint town's main drag runs about two blocks, starting by the famous Mormon Station trading post, and ending by the state's oldest saloon. In between are cute shops and restaurants in well-preserved buildings to give you a feel of the old west.